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Introduction
A
renewed interest in antique porcelain dolls has encouraged many people to
start making these delicate play things. Doll artists now make original
moulds to bring the craft up to date, while kits for making replica
antique dolls are available for less experienced craftspeople.
Origins
Few porcelain dolls are made solely of china. The head must
be china and the lower arms and legs may also be of china but the torso is
usually a fabric shell stuffed with a soft filling. The dolls are
therefore prized for their heads.
The finest examples are fascinating, with delicate features
cast and painted with consummate skill, often giving the dolls a lively,
eerily human quality.
Porcelain dolls originated in Germany in the late 18th
century. These early dolls depicted and were mainly intended for adults.
Only later, in the 19th century, did china dolls come to
represent babies or small children and become playthings. These dolls grew
in popularity in Europe between 1840 and 1920. German makers continued to
dominate the craft, but French and British manufacturers also made notable
contributions to the craft.
Those early dolls are now highly prized by antique collectors
and the interest stimulated by this has played a large part in encouraging
a revival in the craft.
Tools and equipment
A kiln is the most expensive piece of equipment needed for
the process. Small kilns which can be run off the mains are available for
use in the home and are quite adequate for firing the doll pieces.
Modelling clay and plaster are needed to make the mould
unless a ready made one is being used.
Porcelain comes in three different types: bisque (unglazed
porcelain with a matt surface), parian (fine white bisque), and china
(glazed porcelain). Doll makers use porcelain slip – a pourable liquid
containing clay particles held in suspension – which can be made or
bought. Most prefer bisque as it can be painted after firing.
Under glaze ceramic paints are used to paint the skin and add
details such as eyes and lips.
Manufactured glass eyes, teeth and wigs can be used in place
of painted details.
 Basic techniques
The mould – Doll artists use modelling clay to work out the
shape of the head; they then take a plaster cast of this for the mould.
The mould is made in two halves which are strapped tightly together when a
cast is taken. This allows the cast piece to be removed with ease once the
porcelain is dry enough to move.
For a portrait, the models head is photographed and measured
in detail to enable the doll maker to construct an accurate mould, scaled
down to the required size.
Taking a cast – The porcelain slip is poured into the mould
in a steady stream until the inside is evenly coated. Any excess is poured
off. The mould is left to allow the cast to dry, which usually takes about
an hour, depending on slip used.
The porcelain cast is called ‘greenware’ (unfired clay)
and should have a leathery texture. Holes are now cut for the eyes and
mouth but detailed final shaping of these takes place when the greenware
is dry. The greenware is left to dry in a well ventilated room.
Firing and sanding – The next stage is the bisque firing
when the porcelain becomes fully hardened. This first firing must be done
slowly to prevent damage to the porcelain. The fumes given off during
firing are toxic so the kiln area must be well ventilated.
Once cooled, the pieces are cleaned and sanded. This can be
done before firing, but it is better done after.
Painting the head – Painting brings the doll’s head to
life. It is a skilful process requiring a deft hand and can involve
several stages to complete the face.
If a flesh-tinted porcelain slip has not been used, the whole
head may be coloured with a flesh tone which is brushed on. It is then
fired to set the paint. Other details are added and the head is again
fired. Painting lashes and brows is particularly hard, and painted eyes
have to be just right to avoid a stark and unnatural look that can ruin
the character of a face.
Glazing, if required is done after the painting has been
finished and fired. The glaze is set by firing the pieces in the kiln
again.
All that remains is for any finishing fixtures such as eyes,
teeth and hair to be put in place. Eyes are held in place with wax or
adhesive; teeth are positioned with plaster of Paris. Sometimes the hair
is painted on, but more often wigs are used to complete the head.
Once the head, limbs and torso (whether porcelain or fabric)
have been made and painted, they are joined up and the figure is ready to
be costumed.
The clothes can be designed specially or patterns can be
bought. Boaters, bonnets, boots and anything else the well dressed doll
might require are also available from specialist retailers.
Courses
If you offer porcelain doll making courses / evening classes
/ demonstrations - please contact us to advertise your
details here.
There are lots of books available to learn the skills from
home.
To
learn proper porcelain doll making techniques the best starting point is
to contact polytechnics / colleges to see if they have any organized
courses.
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