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The beauty and versatility of leather, which can be as hard as wood or have
the delicacy and sensuality of silk, makes it an inspiring material to work
with. It may be left natural or dyed in jewel - like colours to make useful
items such as bags, hats and belts.
Origins
As leather is not only attractive but durable and waterproof too, it has many
practical uses. In fact, leatherwork is one of the oldest crafts and retains its
popularity despite mechanization and the invention of plastics.
Pre-historic people used animal skins for clothing so the history of
leatherwork goes back as far as that of mankind. The first attempts of treating
leather to make it supple and durable included smoking the hides then rubbing
them with fat. The great breakthrough for the craft came, however, with the
discovery of tanning - the process in which leather is treated so that it does
not rot or dry out.
Tannin comes from the back of certain trees such as oak. By soaking the
leather in water with the bark it becomes tanned and durable. In the middle ages
every village had it own tannery and the same process is still used today.
According to legend, king Alfred was responsible for organizing the craft of
leatherwork in England. He decided that the sandals his army wore were
inadequate for marching, so he brought together a group of leatherworkers in
Northampton to make them new footwear. Today Northampton is still the centre of
the shoe making industry.
These craftspeople were called 'cordwainers' because they used the finest
leather, imported in those days from Cordova in Spain. The name is still
sometimes used to describe leatherworkers. As well as shoes, 'cordwainers' also
made the fine gloves that can often be seen in medieval tapestries and which
ladies gave to their favourite knights.
In the middle ages the technique known as
'cuir bouilli', which is still used
today, was invented. It was used for making large leather objects such as
helmets or the medieval jugs known as bombards.
The method involves wetting the leather and then moulding it over a wooden
shape or 'former'. Once it has set the leather is dipped in scalding water and
dried quickly as possible to give it a wood-hard finish. This process seems easy
but practise is needed to judge the right speed for drying and the best
temperature for dipping.
Towards the end of the 19th century a new process known as chrome tanning in
which leather was prepared with chromium salts was introduced. This method has
the advantage that it does not require trees to be felled. And leather treated
in this way can take the bright colours popular for belts, hats and jewellery.
However, the leather is less supple and tends not to be so long-lasting.
 Basic technique
Most leatherworkers prefer to work with vegetable-tanned leather, bear in
mind that it darkens and acquires a sheen with age. On a small piece such as a
purse or a wallet, the grain of the leather is very noticeable and gives an
interesting textural effect. As different hides have varying textures, the first
stage of making a piece may involve rolling the leather to bring up the grain in
it. Very soft, smooth leather is bought ready glazed.
After a natural leather item is finished it can be dyed using aniline or
special leather dyes. To stop the dyes from changing colour a thin coat of
shellac varnish may be used as a sealant. This method is most useful for giving
an aged effect to new leather.
A method called tooling is used to carve or press a design onto leather. The
commonly used process of plain or 'blind' tooling, for example, involves
hammering a stamping tool with a decorative design on to moistened leather. An
impression remains after the leather dries.
This stamp pattern can be further decorated with gold. Although gilding is a
craft in its own right, it is easy to pick out a detail of the design with a
small amount of gold leaf. It is also possible to paint leather freehand with an
artist's brush and special paints; this technique works best on coloured
leather.
Knowing how to look after a finished leather item is just as important as
knowing how to make it. Leather must be regularly cleaned and waxed, and this is
just as much part of the craft. Many professional leatherworkers offer a
'nursing' service and will treat, repair and restore the work as the need
arises.
Courses
If you offer leatherwork courses / evening classes / demonstrations -
please contact us to advertise your details here.
To learn proper leather work techniques the best starting point is to
contact polytechnics / art schools / workshops /colleges to see if they have any organized
courses.
If you are inspired to become
a professional leather worker, you could also
consider a trade apprenticeship.
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